Vacheron Constantin boast a lengthy and uninterrupted history of manufacture, dating back to 1755. The firm’s founder,
Jean-Marc Vacheron, was one of many cabinotier-watchmakers who specialised in the production of complex components. Upon partnering with
François Constantin,
Vacheron (the brand) became widely-known for upholding the finest horological traditions - enamelling, piercing, engraving and engine-turning.
The
Overseas collection was first introduced in 1996, though the roots of the
Overseas go back all the way to 1977, to the introduction of the
reference 222. The
222 is one
Vacheron Constantin’s most recognisable watches, due to its distinctive features and its contribution as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches, alongside the
Royal Oak and the
Nautilus. The overall philosophy and several design features of the
222 - such as the notched bezel, angular integrated bracelet and overall luxurious yet industrial feel - have been transmitted onto the
Overseas collection.
In 2016,
Vacheron Constantin released the third generation of the
Overseas collection (with the second generation having been released in 2004), offering overall more refined designs and marking a shift towards greater elegance. The timepiece offered here is part of this latest generation. It is the first ever pure perpetual calendar to be fitted into an
Overseas watch (with a perpetual calendar chronograph having been executed in an earlier collection). Later introduced in pink gold, this boutique-only model in white gold is the first execution of this reference.
The watch features a bold ‘tonneau’ case with broad shoulders and an integrated steel bracelet, with sharp, internal angles in-between the links, which are polished by hand. The bezel has a notched profile, reminiscent of the shape of a
Malte Cross, the emblem of
Vacheron Constantin. The overall design is less raw than previous iterations of the
Overseas and certainly more elegant, due in part to the thinness of the case, which measures only 8.1mm in height; a rather impressive feat, considering that despite featuring an antimagnetic case and a perpetual calendar module, it is only half of a millimetre thicker than the
Overseas Ultra-thin. Overall, the case manages to perfectly balance a rugged, industrial feel with a more refined, luxurious one.
The
Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is powered by the ultra-slim caliber 1120 QP, based on the historical calibre 1121 which powered the
Vacheron Constantin 222, with an additional perpetual calendar module built on top. The caliber 1121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of
Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967, famous for its adoption by
Audemars Piguet,
Patek Philippe and
Vacheron Constantin. The
Vacheron calibre 1121 remains one of the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movements in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made. The caliber 1120 QP in this watch features a soft iron inner ring, to give protection against magnetic fields, and is beautifully finished to
Geneva Seal standards, with a 22-carat gold rotor decorated in a wind rose motif.
The grey sunburst dial features three sub-dials for the perpetual calendar indications, as well as an aperture for a moonphase. The Leap Year indication on this particular watch varies slightly from other perpetual calendars, with a single hand being used for both the month and Leap Year cycle, which makes a full revolution every four years. The smooth moon adds a certain serenity to what might have been an overly-busy dial, with the moonphase disk being lightly textured and decorated with engraved constellations and hand-painted stars.
This example comes as a full set, with its accompanying box and original, open paperwork.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
