Founded by Maximilian Büsser nearly twenty years ago, in 2005, MB&F has come to be known for its innovative, conceptual watches made in small numbers and which seek to push the boundaries of how we see time. Its approach, which focuses on collaboration and bringing handcrafted methods to futuristic ideas, is central to its Legacy Machine series. The Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, which won the Calendar Watch prize at the 2021 GPHG, is one of the best known references of this line.
When the LM3 Perpetual was released in 2015, it marked the first time MB&F took on a traditional high-complication, and executed it in its particular style. The Perpetual EVO was released in 2020 in a series of 15 pieces. It features a zirconium case with a vibrant orange dial achieved by chemical vapour deposition (CVD). While MB&F previously used zirconium in the HM3 Poison Dart Frog in 2012 and has since also used it in its Legacy Machine Sequential EVO, it remains a rarity in watchmaking. However, its light weight and lustre suit it to the LM Perpetual EVO.
With the LM3 Perpetual, watchmaker Stephen McDonnell reinvented the mechanics behind the perpetual calendar. While a typical perpetual calendar mechanism is based on a wheel with 31 teeth for the 31 days in the longest month, McDonnell employs a wheel with 28 teeth, for the shortest month of the year. This works in combination with what MB&F calls its mechanical processor. It’s a multi-layered stacked gear with moving segments inside and is designed to be programmed on the 25th of the month, and then automatically calibrate to show the extra days of the month as and when required.
The architecture also allows direct access to the correct the year in the 48 month cycle the calendar is accurate to. This means, the wearer does not have to cycle through the 47 months to get to the correct one. The calibre also makes use of an internal safety-system, disengaging the correctors at date changeovers, to spare the movement from accidental damage by its user.
Alongside the raised balance, the much of the mechanics of the perpetual calendar are displayed on the dial side of the mainplate. Nestled within the sculptural, twin-armed balance bridge and the 14mm balance is the subsidiary time display. It is marginally bigger in scale than the open-worked, black-rimmed calendar displays. Integrated between 3 and 5 o’clock is the power reserve indicator. Its visual counterpart between 6 and 8 o’clock is the leap year indicator. The contrast between the sunray pattern of the mainplate and the black time and calendar displays makes the watch very legible. This visibility is only heightened by the application of SuperLumiNova on the hands and scales of the time as well as the calendar displays.
The EVO edition of the LM Perpetual introduces some changes to the 44 case, such as a no-bezel construction, with the sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. It sits 16.9mm tall. The shape of the pushers were also transformed from circular, protruding buttons to subtler oblong examples for a sleeker case silhouette. The crown screws down to provide 80m of water resistance. The case includes a play of polished and brushed parts. The lugs feature recessed details that have been media blasted.
Furthermore, MB&F added an annular dampener (FlexRing) between the case and movement, providing shock protection. Despite its 44mm size, this lighter iteration sits remarkably well on the wrist. It comes on a suitable black rubber strap secured by a stainless steel double deployant clasp.
The manually wound movement, visible through a lightly domed crystal caseback, features twin mainspring barrels out of which the calibre extracts 72 hours of autonomy. The nickel-anthracite coating on the bridges is beautifully decorated with Côtes de Genève. The edges are finished with sharp anglage and many of the visible jewels, such as the ones anchoring the mainspring barrels, are ensconced in gold chatons. The watch designer’s name is etched in an elegant calligraphic font, as is the jewel count and the country of origin.
This examples comes with its full set of outer and inner boxes as well as original bill of sale, instruction and warranty paperwork.
A Collected Man is a Pre-Owned Approved partner of MB&F, a relationship which stems from the deep appreciation we have for the work of Maximillian Büsser and his friends. We are pleased to note that MB&F has graciously offered a complimentary service to the buyer within the first six months after the sale.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Evo will be subject to 20% VAT
