Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo, Stainless Steel

The Murakumo is the distillation of the sensibilities of watchmaker Tomonari Nakagawa and designer Yusuke Kikuchi. Nakagawa originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying his metal-work skills to watchmaking and finding employment with Citizen Watch Co. Nakagawa met Kikuchi in Paris, where the latter was attending watchmaking school. Their shared appreciation, not just of watchmaking from the 1930s, but also of metal finishing, led them to create Kikuchi Nakagawa. Today the atelier is known as much for its small output of finely finished time-only watches as it is for its 10-year waitlist for a piece.

The Murakumo features a stainless-steel case that measures just under 37mm across and stands just 8.5mm tall. This height is inclusive of the box-style sapphire crystal that is intrinsic to the aesthetic of the period the watch references. The case, made by Japanese specialists Matsuura Works, is evenly black polished throughout. The painstaking process, usually reserved for small components on the movement, is done entirely in-house. The effect is without blemish or strain, even when viewed closely under magnification.

The flat stepped bezel is sharp and precise, its diameter marginally smaller than that of the midcase. Closely following the form of the Patek Philippe reference 96, the lugs are contiguous to the midcase. They taper marginally, and curve down. As is appropriate for a watch inspired by the 1930s, the lugs are drilled-through. Another reference to this era is the wide-set stance of the lugs that stand 22mm apart. Between them is an unworn black alligator strap, crafted by Matsushita-an, a specialist maker based in Tokyo. The caseback is simple – closed and mirror polished, secured by six polished screws.

The pearlescent white dial, crafted by Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine manufacture, wears a pad-printed chapter of italicised Breguet numerals in black lacquer. At 5 and 7 o’clock are solid black dots to accommodate the subsidiary seconds register. Outside the hours chapter runs a semi-open minute track. The slightly recessed subsidiary seconds register has a sector-style layout that is also printed in black lacquer.

The hands have been given particular care. The hour hand has a bulbous stem that terminates in a spade-shape. The three-dimensional spade-end features a central ridge from which the rest of the structure swoops down. Similarly sculptural is the sword-style minutes hand. The feuille-style seconds hand, made from German silver, also has a similarly rounded profile. All are crafted by hand and beautifully polished black.

Obscured from view by the closed caseback is the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier self-winding calibre KN001. The slender 29-jewel movement, that beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, features a uni-directional micro-rotor, and a flat hairspring. It offers 48 hours of autonomy.

The watch comes with its full set that includes outer and inner boxes, bill of sale and warranty paperwork hand-signed by the watchmakers.

The Murakumo embodies the refined, classical preferences often associated with Japan. However, it is decidedly modern on the wrist. This example, only the second to be offered on the market, and the first with the attractive, pearl-finish dial represents a rare opportunity for those appreciative of the philosophy that underpins the Murakumo.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and likely worn on only a handful of occasions, if at all.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.