It was in the the late 1980s, when François-Paul Journe envisioned the
Chronomètre Optimum to be the watch that he would design for himself - “with three-hands, two mainsprings and a
remontoir d'égalité”. It was in 2001 that the original concept for the
Chronomètre Optimum was reworked, taking over 10 years to reach production in 2012.
In the design, Monsieur Journe used familiar pieces from the
Chronomètre Souverain and
Tourbillon. Like the
Souverain, the
Optimum utilises a double-barrel layout, operating in parallel. Borrowing from the tourbillon, the
Optimum uses the one-second
rementoir d'egalité system. The latter is displayed in one of two large apertures on the dial side, and it provides constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement. The patented,
EBHP direct-impulse
bi-axial escapement functions without any oil or any form of lubricants. Connected to this, a "natural" dead-beat seconds, displayed on the caseback.
The combination of these systems offers a more stable delivery of energy to the movement. According to
Journe himself, the
Optimum is thus the ultimate chronometer, achieved by the maximum possible reduction of internal friction in the movement.
This manual-winding, Calibre
1510 is made from 18k rose gold, with
fausses-côtes embellishments, constructed with 44 jewels, oscillating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. As expected from
F. P Journe, the movement is expertly finished and elaborately decorated, with contrasts established between the circular graining on the baseplate and Genevan stripes on the bridges.
Sized at a contemporary 40mm, this platinum
Chronomètre Optimum features a rounded bezel, thin lugs and the manufactures' signature ‘flat crown’ with a rope-like pattern. The entire watch is polished and mirror finished, while the crown itself is engraved. The white gold dial of the
Chronomètre Optimum displays a separate silver guilloché dial for the hours and minutes, along with a running-seconds at 9 o’clock.
The words "
Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed above the two subsidiary dials (Latin for “Invented and Made”) in classic
F.P Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The power-reserve indicator is located a 6 o’clock, heading from 0 to 40+. Impressively, the
Chronomètre Optimum has a power-reserve of 70 hours, with 50 full-hours possible without any loss of amplitude.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
