More usually known for their tongue-in-cheek tributes to watchmaking and insistence on breaking out of the mould, this H. Moser & Cie Mayu is a breath of fresh air with its monochromatic appearance and attention to the subtlest of details. Launched in 2016, the Mayu's name is a tribute to Heinrich Moser's wife, Charlotte Mayu. The watch manages to distil the essence of the brand's traits in an elegant package, making it an excellent find for collectors seeking to add a more minimalist piece from H. Moser & Cie to their collection.
 
The watch features a grey fumé dial, which perhaps most vividly renders the “smoky” effect that the term translates into. It simply means that the dial has a gradient, where the outermost part of the dial is the darkest, slowly transitioning into a lighter colour near the centre. Creating this effect involves spraying a shadow onto a rotating dial that has already undergone various chemical processes, and, depending on factors such as the speed of rotation of the dial or even the pressure of the spray, very different outcomes might be achieved. The minimalist style of this Mayu is further underscored by the slender baton-style indices and feuille-style hands, as well as a slightly sunken sub-dial that is a similar grey colour.
 
The 39mm case is made from palladium, a rarely seen metal in watchmaking. This is a rare white metal that resembles platinum yet is considerably lighter, harder, and more resistant to scratches. The case is polished to a high shine and contrasts nicely against the dial, while also wearing very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the curvature of the back of the case and the sapphire caseback, as well as the shorter lugs.
 
The watch is fitted with the made calibre HMC 325.503-10, which contains a Straumann hairspring and Breguet overcoil, both parts developed and made by H. Moser & Cie, a rather unusual feat, especially for a smaller manufacture. A power reserve indicator can be seen in the form of a wheel, counting the 80 hours the watch has when fully wound. Furthermore, the architecture and finishing of the movement is especially striking and in keeping with the more traditional appearance of the watch, with beautifully executed Geneva stripes found across the bridges, sharp anglage, and black polishing. The movement is engraved with "H. Moser & Cie" as well as the positions, ruby count, and the traditional H. Moser & Cie emblem.

Closer look

Condition

This H. Moser & Cie. Mayu 325.503-10 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and have been well preserved. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by H. Moser & Cie. in July 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from  A Collected Man.