H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept, "Funky Blue", White Gold

Reviving the Moser Name 

Originally founded in 1828 in St. Petersburg, Russia, H.Moser & Cie has long-established roots within the world of horology. In their earliest form, Heinrich Moser’s clients included Russian princes, as well as members of the Russian Imperial Court. After a slight lull in its history, a German engineer by the name of Dr. Jürgen Lange resuscitated the Moser name in 2005, with Heinrich Moser's great-grandson involved in the project. 

Since then, H. Moser & Cie are well-known for creating watches that combine classic styling with innovative features. From refined movement mechanics to unusual dial treatment techniques, their timepieces have become visually distinctive and recognisable. In his aim of developing forward-thinking watchmaking, Lange collaborated with a range of independent watchmakers, including Andreas Strehler, Rolf Lang, and Jörg Spöring.

Whilst some manufactures often shy away from discussing collaboration, Lange actively promoted and publicised it, seeing it as a strength for his young brand. The watchmakers involved in the project were also invited to the launch event, and were actively encouraged to discuss their contribution and involvement.

The "Concept" Dial

Introduced in 2015, the H. Moser & Cie “Concept” model reimagined what it meant to tell time with its minimalist dial, devoid of any numerals or branding, presenting the watch in its simplest form. From a deep burgundy to a smoky blue or emerald-green, the Concept dial comes in various shades, but all are instantly recognisable as being part of the Moser oeuvre.

Also known as a “fume” dial, which roughly means “smoky”, it simply means that the dial has a gradient, where the outermost part of the dial is the darkest, slowly transitioning into a lighter colour near the centre. Creating this effect involves spraying a shadow onto a rotating dial that has already undergone various chemical processes, and, depending on factors such as the speed of rotation of the dial or even the pressure of the spray, very different outcomes might be achieved.

A Classic Complication

With a tourbillon, the escapement and balance wheel are mounted within a rotating cage, the purpose of which is to counteract the disruption caused by gravity. This regular rotation is intended to average out any positional errors and maintain greater accuracy. Tackling the complication has become a sort of rite of passage for many independent watchmakers looking to make a name for themselves. The visual appeal of the complication, its storied past and the skill needed to assemble one according to more traditional methods have all contributed to this.

The skeletonised tourbillon complication found within this piece provides a striking contrast to the blank dial, allowing us a secret look into the inner workings of the watch. Meanwhile, the watch is encased in white gold, with the feuille-style hands rendered in the same metal. With a flat, rather than raised bezel, the piece retains aspects of a more traditional style alongside its distinctly modern design.  

The Movement 

The watch is powered by the HMC 804, which can be seen through the sapphire caseback. The movement is a self-winding calibre that is fitted with 28 jewels and has a double flat balance spring intended to reduce friction while improving accuracy. Additionally, the movement oscillates at 21,600Hz per hour and has a power reserve of 72 hours. 

The movement is beautifully finished with Côtes de Genève on the bridges, and a hint of the circular graining can be seen on the baseplate. A H. Moser & Cie. hallmark can be found engraved on the bronze-coloured oscillating weight.

The Set

This H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon comes with its original outer and inner boxes, Certificate of Origin (confirming the date or purchase and the individual watch case number) an operating manual, polishing cloth, and two small manufactures hangtangs. A bespoke grained leather strap in taupe is also included, in addition to the manufactures black alligator strap and corresponding white gold deployant clasp.

Closer look