Daniel Roth Papillon, 10th Anniversary, White Gold

The Story of Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, with his grandfather and great-grandfather both working as watchmakers in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Following this path, he completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before fulfilling his ambition of moving to the Vallée de Joux, one of the world’s watchmaking epicentres. He joined Audemars Piguet at a young age, at a time where he was the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home.

Following seven years at Audemars Piguet, Roth was noticed by the Chaumet brothers, the then owners of Breguet. In the midst of the Quartz Crisis, they wanted to restore the brand to its former glory and were looking for a Master Watchmaker who could help. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques. Over fourteen years, he would help rebuild the watchmaker, cementing the style, finishing and complications in wristwatch form.

In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist. He cemented aesthetic codes which are distinctively his own, from the double-ellipse case to the sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials used on some of his models. Though his output was limited, it was plentiful in its diversity and inventiveness, from tourbillons to chronographs. Daniel Roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside Franck Muller, Roger Dubuis and Francois-Paul Journe, among others. In 2000, the company was sold to Bulgari, with the watchmaker no longer being involved from that point onwards.

The Papillon

Introduced in 1998, the Papillon was released to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the Daniel Roth manufacture. Though the watchmaker had been increasingly less involved in the brand from 1995 onwards, he took an active role in the design of the Papillon, to mark this historic milestone. It is understood that this was Roth's last creation for the eponymous brand, prior to starting a new chapter of independant watchmaking, under the Jean Daniel Nicolas name. 

This distinctive jump hour model takes its name from the French word for butterfly, on account of the atypical dial layout, reminiscent of butterfly wings. It is understood that only 250 pieces were ever produced, with 110 in white gold, 110 in rose gold and 30 in platinum.

The Design

The layout of this 10th Anniversary Papillon is satisfyingly symmetrical, with the oversized seconds indication sitting at the center of the dial. An aperture at 12 o'clock displays the hours, whilst the minutes are indicated on an arc at 6 o'clock. A blued pointer emerges from beneath the seconds subdial, subtly indicating the correct minutes. The window satisfyingly jumps into place, as the hours changes.

The dial features two different styles of guilloché, applied by hand, which contrast with the brushed surfaces of the minute and seconds chapter rings. The variety in finishing and the construction of the dial on several levels gives a satisfying depth to the design, as well as a welcome touch of variety. The "Daniel Roth" signature sits on either side of the dial, further leaning into the symmetry of the overall layout.

The white gold double-ellipse case is unique in its execution. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. Measuring 38mm x 35mm in diameter, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist and wears larger than its dimensions would otherwise suggest.

The Movement 

This Daniel Roth 10th Anniversary Papillon is based on a Girard-Perregaux calibre 3000 ébauche. The movement is subtly finished, with perlage on the base layer, chamfering on some of the angles, as well as polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping. The rotor is made out of solid gold, and engraved by hand. It reads "10 Years Daniel Roth X2X/110".

The Set

This Daniel Roth 10th Anniversary Papillon is accompanied by its original outer card box, inner leather and wooden presentation boxes, Certificate or Origin and Servicing paperwork - from October 2021 - from Bvlgari. Included is an original black alligator Daniel Roth strap and the corresponding white gold buckle.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Daniel Roth 10th Anniversary Papillon will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look