Daniel Roth Monopusher, Early, Platinum

In 1991, only two years after establishing his eponymous brand, Daniel Roth produced a small number of Monopusher Chronographs, limited to only 36 pieces in yellow gold and 16 in platinum. Roth retrieved a small number of Lemania 2220 movements from the ‘30s, which were traditionally used in pocket watches, and refinished them to the high standard which has come to be expected from the watchmaker. Indeed, the relatively large and expansive movement displays sharp Côte de Genève, subtly bevelled edges, and masterfully polished components. Roth was perhaps one of the first independent watchmakers to integrate high-quality vintage ébauches into his creations, with this tradition later being carried on by the likes of Kari Voutilainen.

The dial is a restrained shade of grey gold, which blends smoothly into the hue of the platinum case. The varying textures, from the Clous de Paris in the centre to the brushed chapter ring, makes the dial visually intricate and refined. It is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “NUMERO 8” at 6 o’clock, where the watch’s unique number is displayed. The movement also displays the same number, in line with Roth’s practice of numbering dials and movements. The lance-shaped hands, a visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in blued steel.

The double-ellipse case of the monopusher is extremely innovative in its execution. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. The monopusher on the right-hand side of the case repeats this double-ellipse shape, lending balance to the overall design. Interestingly, the case of this Monopusher Chronograph is larger than the other chronographs produced by Roth during this era, to accommodate for the larger Lemania 2220 ébauche.

Later on, after the watchmaker began to be less involved with the brand, 10 more of these movements were found and installed into Daniel Roth chronographs. These can be distinguished from the first batch of monopushers thanks to their swan-neck regulator, which was not included the first time round, and a less intricate dial design.

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Closer look

This Daniel Roth is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with wear over time. There are more noticeable marks on the bezel, on the top of the top right lug, and on the sides of the left-hand lugs. The hallmarks, found on the base of the bottom lugs, remain crisp and well-defined. All the chronograph functions work as expected, operated through the monopusher at 2 o’clock.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.