The Story of Daniel Roth
Daniel Roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, with his grandfather and great-grandfather both working as watchmakers in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Following this path, he completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before fulfilling his ambition of moving to the Vallée de Joux, one of the world’s watchmaking epicentres. He joined
Audemars Piguet at a young age, at a time where he was the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home.
Following seven years at
Audemars Piguet, Roth was noticed by the Chaumet brothers, the then owners of
Breguet. In the midst of the Quartz Crisis, they wanted to restore the brand to its former glory and were looking for a Master Watchmaker who could help. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques. Over fourteen years, he would help rebuild the watchmaker, cementing the style, finishing and complications in wristwatch form.
In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist. He cemented aesthetic codes which are distinctively his own, from the double-ellipse case to the sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials used on some of his models. Though his output was limited, it was plentiful in its diversity and inventiveness, from tourbillons to chronographs. Daniel Roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside
Franck Muller,
Roger Dubuis and
Francois-Paul Journe, among others. In 2000, the company was sold to
Bulgari, with the watchmaker no longer being involved from that point onwards.
The Design
This manually-wound
Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is a quintessential execution of the watchmaker’s style. Made out of non-treated white gold, the dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the lighter, brushed chapter ring and chronograph counters. The contrast in colour and finishing, as well as the layout on several levels, gives a satisfying depth to the design.
The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “NUMERO XX” at 6 o’clock, where the watch’s unique number is displayed (with this example being one of the first 100). The lance-shaped hands, another visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in blue steel.
The rose gold double-ellipse case of the
BB 2147 is unique in its execution. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. The chronograph pushers, on the left-hand side of the case, repeat this double-ellipse shape, lending balance to the overall design. Measuring 38mm x 35mm in diameter, with a thickness of 10mm, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist.
The Movement
Assembled by hand in the brand’s Vallée du Joux workshop, this
Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is powered by a finely-finished
Lemania 2320 movement (similar to the calibers used in the
Patek Philippe 5070 and
Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronographs).
Beyond being one of the finest manual-winding calibers of the time, the use of the
Lemania 2320 is especially compelling in Daniel Roth’s case. Indeed, the watchmaker helped develop and refine many of the
Lemania calibers, after the movement manufacturer was acquired by
Breguet.
The complexity of the movement is revealed through a sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator. Aesthetically, the caliber is finished to the highest standards. The movement features exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.
The Set
This
Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is accompanied by its
Certificate of Origin and Ownership, as well as its
Club Daniel Roth paperwork. The paperwork, signed by Roth himself, confirms the unique serial number of the watch and the date of sale as 1992 (three years after the brand was established).
It comes on a bespoke
20 x 16mm Paris strap, with curved ends, as well as the original yellow gold deployante buckle.
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