Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, 7928, Steel

Since the introduction of the very first Submariner, variations in the execution of each reference have often illustrated the watches’ continuous evolution. Its iconic status and importance to the Rolex brand has led to constant reinvention and modernisation, marking a number of industry innovations along the way. What’s more, this impact is equally evident in that of the Tudor Submariner. The Tudor Submariner 7928, was the first to feature crown guards, often referred to by collectors in the reference 7928 as “Square Crown Guards”. What makes this 7928 particularly special is the early execution, gilt chapter-ring dial with tritium markers and silver script. What further sets it apart, is the incredibly well-preserved condition throughout. With its Rolex-stamped, original 7206, riveted-link bracelet and clasp, with matching 80 end-links, it looks very much of its time.

The history of Tudor dates back to 1926, when the house of “Veuve de Philippe Hüther”, a Swiss watchmaker, registered the trademark “The Tudor” in Geneva, for Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex Watch Co.) The Tudor brand was transferred to Hans Wilsdorf in October 1936, leading to the formation of “Montres Tudor S.A” 10 years later, just after the Second World War. In the years leading up to the development of the brand, Hans Wilsdorf had long considered the idea of manufacturing a moderately priced watch that would still attain the technical, aesthetic and functional characteristics of a Rolex (many of which, share identical features to their Rolex counterparts).

The dial of this Tudor Submariner 7928 is in exceptionally good condition, with tritium index markers and classic 'TUDOR’ and ‘OYSTER PRINCE – 200m-660ft – SUBMARINER – ROTOR- SELF-WINDING’ text referenced in silver script, further displaying the Tudor Rose. The Tritium index plots and Mercedes hands have aged to a beautiful, yellow patina. Sized at 39mm, the case appears unpolished, with sharp bevels displayed on its lugs and defined case-back engraving. The brushed finish on the lugs is clearly visible, while the polished sides are in exceptional condition. This particular case dates to circa 1966 (serial 507 XXX).

Inside the watch, it houses a Rolex-customised Fleurier 350, known as the Rolex calibre 390. This self-winding movement features 17 jewels, Glucydur balance and KIF shock-protection, beating at a rate of 18,000 A/h, with a power-reserve of 39h. The calibre 390 is featured in all 7900 series Tudor Submariners, and is renowed for its stability and accuracy.

The survival of many vintage Tudor examples today can be attributed to Rolex’s exceptional manufacturing process, combining innovative case design with some of history’s most robust calibres. The ‘Tudor Oyster’, adopted Rolex’s legendary hermetically sealed ‘Oyster’ case, first introduced in 1926. Beginning as the first waterproof and dust-proof wristwatch designed specifically for professional use. In 1952, early Tudor Oyster Prince watches were issued to 30 crew members of the Royal Navy, accompanying them on a scientific expedition to the northernmost reaches of Greenland. The French Marine (Navy) also had a fondness for Tudor; adopting many Tudor Submariners developed throughout the 50’s and 60’s for military purposes (known as ‘M.N’ Submariners, issued to the Marine Nationale).

Rarer than most Rolex examples of the same era, it is worth noting that an equivalent Rolex Submariner, with similar characteristics (gilt chapter-ring dial, beautifully patinated lumes, unpolished case) would be priced far in excess of a Tudor Submariner 7928. The intriguing difference being, reference 7928’s are a much rarer breed.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment only.

Closer look

Brand:	Tudor
Model:	Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7928
Movement:	mechanical automatic Cal. 390
Functions:	hours, minutes, centre seconds
Features:	unrestored dial, gilt chapter-ring, silver script
Case:	39 mm stainless steel
Crystal:	plexiglass
Bracelet:	Rolex riveted-link bracelet
Year:	1966
Box & papers:	N/A