H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar 1341, Platinum

The goal of the Endeavour perpetual calendar was to create a tribute to classic styling, and combine this with a number of highly innovative features. The nod to the past was largely achieved through the classic, round, bevel-free case, sized at 40.8 mm, and rich ardoise-grey dial. The movement and components are in-turn, hand-finished and decorated, exhibiting the finest skills of traditional watchmaking.

All that being said, the forward-thinking, innovative nature of H Moser & Cie is clearest through the calendar complication, incorporating a short central arrow hand which uses the 12 hour indices to indicate the month, forgoing the traditional window display. The unique architecture of the Endeavour perpetual calendar is further exemplified through the discreet positioning of the leap year indicator, concealed on the movement side of the watch. The watch is made all the more enjoyeable to wear on the wrist, thanks to an elegant, curved glass case-back.

The Endeavour features H. Moser’s innovative interchangeable escapement module. The escapement was developed to simplify the adjustment, cleaning and servicing of the watch, enabling a watchmaker to remove the existing escapement, clean and oil the rest of the movement before installing a new pre-adjusted module. The in-house caliber HMC 341 movement is a large, 15 ligne movement that beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The double-barrel construction allows for a seven day power reserve, which is impressive for a manually-wound perpetual calendar. This caliber also features hacking seconds for accurate time-setting. A Double Pull crown allows the watch to continually indicate the correct hour, minute and second without interruption when adjusting the date or additional displays. Unlike most other calendars, the HMC 341 also uses an impressive flash calendar feature, automatically changing the date in a fraction of a second on the stroke of midnight.

Whilst the papers are unstamped it dates from circa 2010 and has a beautiful ardoise grey dial. Its hidden depth and character is evident when observed in different lighting; the subtle sunburst pattern creating a mixture of tones depending on the viewing angle. An up/down power-reserve indictor sits at 9 o’clock, along with a large day window at 3 o’clock.

The platinum case is a very wearable 40.8 mm in diameter. At 11.1 mm in height, the overall depth of the watch feels excellent balanced. This H Moser perpetual calendar comes on a brown alligator strap with an 18-carat white gold tang buckle.

Closer look