The Royal Oak Dual Time
Shortly after the original Royal Oak 5402, Audemars Piguet experimented with integrating a range of complications within its iconic, angular case. From the mighty perpetual calendar to a range of chronographs, they repurposed the design to fit a wide range of functions, catering to consumers’ evolving tastes and appetite for variety. Having first developed the dual time functionality for an earlier reference, Audemars Piguet decided to marry this practical complication with their increasingly popular Royal Oak silhouette in 1992. However, it was confined to a 36mm case for quite a while, as this size was favoured by a wider range of clients at the time.
Featuring a date, dual-time and power reserve functionality, the Dual Time remains one of the most complicated mid-size Royal Oaks in the manufacture's catalogue. Bearing some resemblance to the dial layout of Patek Philippe's Nautilus 5712, this reference 25730ST retains legibility and balance, despite the wealth of information displayed.
A Balanced Dial
The dial of this Royal Oak 25730ST is rendered in a matte black colour, which wonderfully complements the stainless-steel case and bracelet. Not typically used within the Royal Oak model, the black dial is deep and legible, enhancing the varied reflections and textures of the stainless-steel case.
The dial integrates a range of different finishing techniques, from the smooth chapter ring and complication sub-dials, to the more traditional “Petite Tapisserie” pattern found in the centre. This pattern is a nod to the manufacture's earliest pieces, with newer versions of the Royal Oak having since adopted the bolder “Tapisserie Evolutive” dial pattern, which is less faithful to the original design.
The different complications are displayed throughout, with the date function at 2 o'clock, the second timezone at 6 o'clock, and the power reserve indication at 9 o'clock. The powdery silver colour of the printed text on the dial - from the numerals for the date to the minute track - adds a further sporty dimension to the overall design and echoes the tone of the case and bracelet.
Usually placed in prime position, in this case, the "Audemars Piguet" signature is discretely nestled within the second timezone indicator at 6 o'clock, yet again bringing coherence to the overall display. The applied “AP” logo and crisp, lume-filled indices further contrast with the deep, black dial. Over time, the lume has faded to a creamy tone, which enhances the vintage aesthetic of this piece.
The Classic Case
At 36mm in diameter, and only 8mm thick, this Royal Oak case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. Thanks to the slim profile of the case and bracelet, the ref. 25730ST hugs the wrist, in a way that is both supremely comfortable, yet distinctively elegant. Collectors have noticed that on account of the unique case shape of the Royal Oak, the mid-size versions wear much larger on the wrist than their dimensions would suggest.
This 25730ST comes with its original bracelet and “AP” signed clasp cover. This example also features a signed crown, which one should expect to find on the models from this period.
The Movement
This Royal Oak Day Date 25730ST is powered by the self-winding calibre 2229-2845, based on a Jaeger LeCoultre ébauche. This automatic calibre features 54 working jewels and has an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold.
The Set
This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25730ST comes with its outer box, inner octagonal leather box, instruction manual, Certificate of Origin, servicing invoices from 2007 and 2021 and a servicing warranty card.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time Ref. 25730ST will be subject to 20% VAT.
