The Reference 14790
Shortly after the introduction of the original Royal Oak 5402, Audemars Piguet experimented with a few mid-sized versions of the design. These were meant to bring the Royal Oak to a wider audience, who at the time favoured more modestly sized wristwatches. In 1992, Audemars Piguet released the reference 14790, with a reduced diameter of 36mm, down from the “Jumbo” 39mm size. In many ways, the reference 14790 is a scaled-down version of the original reference 5402, retaining many of the same features, from the “Petite Tapisserie” dial to the overall proportions.
Though this was not the first or only mid-size execution of the design, it was perhaps the purest and arguably the most well-executed version of the concept. Produced until the turn of the millennium, it remained in production for longer than any other mid-size reference and was offered in a much wider range of configurations than ever before – from bright blue "Yves Klein" dials to tantalum and steel cases.
The First Series
Released in 1992, the first models began leaving the manufacture the very same year. It is understood that the "first series" was produced for a brief one year period. This early pieces displays a range of features – from the vintage-style "Audemars Piguet" font to the unsigned crown and Gay Frères signed bracelet – which are reminiscent of the initial Royal Oak, the reference 5402.
In a way, the first series is the most faithful mid-size rendition of the original, managing to repurpose the proportions within a smaller package, while at the same time keeping the vintage appeal of the earliest pieces. The first series was offered in yellow gold, stainless steel and two-tone, with white, grey and gold dials being known.
This particular Royal Oak ref. 14790 was first sold through Türler in Zürich to an Italian collector, with the watch coming to us from the daughter of the original owner. It remains preserved in seemingly unpolished condition, with all of the key parts - such as the the dial, hands, crown, bracelet and clasp - appearing to be original. It is estimated that less than 1,000 examples of the first series were produced across stainless steel, yellow gold and two-tone.
A Classic Dial
This reference 14790 retains the more understated “Petite Tapisserie” pattern on the dial, forming the square and lozenge motif, as seen in earlier executions of the Royal Oak. It also features the more traditional "Audemars Piguet" font, where all the letters are the same size, rather than the later font introduced in the mid-'90s, which is distinctively more modern in appearance. This is reminiscent of the earliest Royal Oak watches and imbues the piece with a certain vintage aesthetic.
Evidence suggests that the dial was manufactured by Stern Créations, the storied manufacturer which also produced dials for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex “Stella” models, among others. It has an anthracite grey colour, with hints of blue in certain light. It also features the correct style of hands, which are the same thickness and correspond to the thickness of the applied lume-filled indexes.
The Case and Bracelet
At 36mm in diameter, and only 7.5mm thick, this Royal Oak case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. It comes with its original bracelet and deployant clasp, featuring the hallmark of famed bracelet maker Gay Frères, who produced the first Oyster bracelets for Rolex, as well as integrated bracelets for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak. As is customary with the first series, the crown is completely unmarked, compared to those of the later series, which feature the "AP" signature on them.
Thanks to the slim profile of the case and bracelet, the reference 14790 hugs the wrist, in a way that is both supremely comfortable, yet distinctively elegant and characterful. Collectors have noticed that on account of the unique case shape of the Royal Oak, the 14790 wears larger on the wrist than its dimensions would suggest.
The Movement
The Royal Oak 14790ST is powered by the ultra-thin AP caliber 2225, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s JLC 889 calibre movement. Formed of 280 components, the 40-jewel movement is rhodium-plated, with fausses côtes embellishment.
The Set
This Audemars Piguet ref. 14790 is accompanied by its outer box, inner box, manuals, and Certificate of Origin (confirming the case and movement number, as well as the fact that the watch sold in 1993, in Türler).
To find out more about the the Audemars Piguet 14790, you can read our Collector's Guide on the model.
