A Practical Complication
Reflecting on the discrepancies between ordinary calendar watches and the highly complicated perpetual calendars, Patek Philippe set about creating a robust, user-friendly annual calendar complication that could be worn every day. Whilst upholding all the qualities the brand had become synonymous for, Patek Philipe endeavoured to create a watch which also provided a more accessible price point for a calendar complication, compared to the brand’s perpetual calendars. In 1996, the manufacture finally released the world’s first annual calendar wristwatch, the reference 5035. The complication has been in Patek Philippe's catalogue ever since.
A Monochromatic Dial
Where Patek Philippe's perpetual calendars have been somewhat restrained, the annual calendar has proven to be a complication where they have been able to be more expressive with variations in dial colour and case material combinations. The reference 5205G has proved itself as one of these popular variants. It features a two-tone concentric dial, mixing matte silver and slate grey to produce a modern and elegant aesthetic. Patek Philippe has a long-standing tradition of creating two-tone dials, harking back to its earliest pieces, which is presented here in a much more contemporary manner, integrating rhodium and ruthenium details to achieve a subtle, but distinctive, effect.
A 24-hour indicator echoes the slate grey found on the outside chapter ring, with the moonphase sat centrally inside of this. The moonphase disc is produced in a similar slate grey colouring, which extends the monochromatic theme present throughout the rest of the design. It is interesting to note that among Patek Philippe's annual calendar offering, this appears to be one of the few discs that mirrors the rest of the design, rather than opting for a more traditional dark blue backdrop. This accurate moonphase only deviates from the true lunar cycle by one day every 122 years.
The annual calendar mechanism only requires adjustment once a year in February, as it accounts for the long and short months throughout the year. Situated in recessed apertures at 10, 12 and 2 o'clock respectively, the day, date and month are displayed in a highly legible manner. The layout is a clear extension of the design of the 5960 Annual Calendar Chronograph. All apertures can be individually adjusted, using the correctors on the side of the case.
Finely finished dauphine hands glide over the bevelled ruthenium indexes, whilst a stark white sweeping seconds hand provides additional legibility, whilst staying in keeping with the overall aesthetic. Individual white gold minute markers are dotted in between each of the bevelled indexes, providing a subtle embellishment to the restrained dial design.
A Contemporary Case Design
This Patek Philippe 5205G is sized at a contemporary 40mm and has a distinctive amorphous, bevel-free shape. This lesser-used concave bezel, paired with thin lugs and the manufactures' signature crown, work proportionately well together. The entire watch is polished and mirror finished, whilst the crown itself is engraved with the Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross.
Notably, the lugs are hollowed out and recessed on the sides, which adds to the overall contemporary feel of what is largely considered a classical silhouette. This unusual detail speaks to the design approach of the overall piece, which is intended to comfortably balance a classic and more sporty design. Whilst Patek Philippe has remained relatively conservative with its perpetual calendars, the annual calendar collection has adopted a greater degree of boldness and modernity.
The Movement
The complicated yet robust 5205G-001 is powered by Patek Philippe’s calibre 324 S QA LU 24H. It features 34 jewels, a unidirectional winding central rotor in 21K gold, 35-45 hour power reserve, a Gyromax balance wheel with a Spiromax balance spring and the Patek Philippe seal, found on movements produced after 2009. The movement is beautifully finished, with exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.
The Set
This Patek Philippe ref. 5205G-001 comes with a Patek Philippe outer box, inner wooden box, instruction manual, other accompanying product literature, leather wallet and Certificate of Origin. It comes on one of our Tokyo straps, and is also accompanied by its original Patek Philippe alligator strap and 18-carat white gold pin buckle
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