The early 1970s was a time of great change within the watch industry, where the concept of a luxury watch in steel was a truly revolutionary idea. As a result of this,
Audemars Piguet introduced both the ‘
BA’ (solid gold) and ’
SA’ (steel/gold) variants of the
Ref. 5402, shortly after the initial steel pieces, owing to client demand. Early
Royal Oak watches from the early 1970s are highly-sought by collectors, owing to their rarity and unique place in the brand’s history. The reference
5402 Royal Oak is often referred to as ‘Jumbo’, on account of its relatively imposing size for the period.
This steel/gold,
Royal Oak 5402SA is the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design, with yellow-gold indexes, centre-links and bezel. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 7mm thick, this
Royal Oak 5402SA case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. The outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (
No. 5XX), of only 951 steel/gold pieces produced in total.
This
5402SA carries the ‘
AP’ logo at 12 o’clock, typical of later examples (from mid-400 serial onwards). The weaving pattern of the ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial, forming the square and lozenge motif, alters the 'faded' grey coloration of the dial as it reflects light from different angles, with subtle patina around the
Audemars Piguet logo. The dial further features a date aperture at 3 o’clock and luminous yellow-gold hands and hour markers - the latter, aged to a beautiful golden tone. At 6 o’clock, a “
Swiss” marking is visible.
The
Royal Oak 5402 is powered by the ultra-thin
AP caliber 2121, derived from
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin
JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of
Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by
Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by
Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and
Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2121 calibre features 36 working jewels,
Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The
AP calibre 2121 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes fully-equipped with its original two-tone bracelet and clasp (end-links stamped
D4, clasp signed
'AP’), original box an
d Archive Extract from
Audemars Piguet. The watch is further accompanied by a servicing receipt from
Audemars Piguet (dated 2018).
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment only.
