Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940P, Platinum

This platinum example from 2006, the final year of the 3940, perfectly illustrates why the reference is so coveted and timeless (as the cliche goes). It is understated both in its styling and size, with the platinum reference carrying a larger weight than examples in other metals. With its modest (by today's standards) 36 mm size, and a slim case matched by a slim automatic movement, it smoothly fits the wrist.

The dial has three registers, with the various functions neatly balanced out. The sub-dial at three o'clock shows the leap-year counter and the months (in English), in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise lightly brushed, silver dial. In a similar fashion, the months and day/night indicators are placed at nine o'clock. The stunning silver moon-phase is placed at six o'clock, with the days of the month around it. The silver Dauphine hands add a touch of masculinity to what only can be described as a beautiful dial. The overall look is refined and subtle, without compromising functionality. 

Representing the best of Swiss design, the movement itself is no less a technical feat. This example has a solid case back, revealing the fantastic hand-finishing, the Genvevian coat of arms and stripes, as well as the off-center, 22k gold micro-rotor. The ultra-thin self-winding movement has been in use by Patek since the 1970s, and continue to beat at the heart of their modern perpetual lines.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.