Founded by Maximilian Büsser nearly twenty years ago, in 2005, MB&F have become known for their innovative, conceptual watches made in small numbers and which seek to push the boundaries of how we see time. Their approach to watchmaking focuses on collaboration and bringing handcrafted methods to their futuristic ideas. The latter idea is an integral part of MB&F's Legacy Machine series, of which this Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO belongs to. 

When the LM3 Perpetual was released in 2015, it marked the first time MB&F took on a traditional high-complication, and executed it in their signature, forward-thinking style; making it a horological milestone in a space where only a handful of perpetual calendar variations existed. This example was released in 2020, and is a true limited edition of just 15 pieces, combining a zirconium case with a vibrant orange CVD dial. MB&F previously made use of zirconium in the HM3 Poison Dart Frog in 2012, but it is an unusual metal in watchmaking. However, its lightweight properties and lustrous appearance make it a good pairing for the updated look of the LM Perpetual. This watch is numbered #1, making it the first of the series.

With the LM3 Perpetual and as seen in this LM Perpetual EVO, watchmaker Stephen McDonnell reinvented the idea of the perpetual calendar, building on ideas seen in earlier examples of the Legacy Machine series. Just as the balance is raised above the dial in the Legacy Machine 1, the idea was to elevate the perpetual calendar displays above the mainplate. This required re-construction of the movement, as the posts used to support the dials stopped a traditional lever-system from operating. MB&F and Stephen McDonnell replaced the complex and delicate lever system, and opted instead, for a series of stacked gears. This neat approach not only enabled the free-spirited design of an open-worked dial, but had the added benefit of displaying the functions clearly and legibly on the dial side. 

Further to this, the calibre introduced a default length of 28-day months, as opposed to the traditional use of 31 days. With this, a “jump” of up to four days can be avoided at the end of certain months, making date switches more reliable, and ensuring each month would switch at the correct number of days. The calibre also makes use of an internal safety-system, deactivating the correctors at date changeovers, to spare the movement from accidental damage by its user. 

The EVO edition of the LM Perpetual introduces some changes to the case, such as a no-bezel construction, with the sapphire crystal fused directly to the case. The shape of the pushers were also transformed from circular, protruding buttons to subtler oblong examples that ensured a sleeker case silhouette. Furthermore, MB&F added an annular dampener (FlexRing) between the case and movement, providing shock protection that is in keeping with the EVO’s desire to be a watch that accompanies the wearer through daily life. Despite its 44mm size, this lighter iteration sits remarkably well on the wrist.

MB&F’s progressive, avant-garde style is most apparent in the open-worked dial, and in the floating effect of the raised discs. The brand’s signature 14mm “flying” balance is seen at the centre of the dial, while deep black sub-dials are found at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock; displaying the day, month, date and time, respectively. The bright orange main-plate is decorated with a sun-ray pattern. 

The movement is beautifully decorated with Côtes de Genève throughout. All bridges bear sharp anglage and many of the visible jewels, such as the ones anchoring the mainspring barrels, are ensconced in gold chatons. The watch designer’s name is etched in an elegant calligraphic font, as is the jewel count and the country of origin. 

A Collected Man is a Pre-Owned Approved partner of MB&F, a relationship which stems from the deep appreciation we have for the work of Maximillian Büsser and his friends. We are pleased to note that MB&F has graciously offered a complimentary service to the buyer within the first six months after the sale.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this MB&F Perpetual Evo Zirconium limited edition red dial will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This MB&F Perpetual Evo Zirconium is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show extremely light signs of wear, only on the very surface of the material and consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The engravings on the case and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity. MB&F has additionally offered a complimentary service to the future owner which can be exercised within the first six months of purchase, extending the warranty by a further two years from the date of completion.